Post Preview:
If your In the Automotive world you have most likely seen the ultra cheap aluminum radiators on eBay or Amazon. The question is, are they any good with prices as low as $120? Let’s talk about it!
I have ran one of these super cheap 3 row aluminum radiators in my classic 1977 Ford F250 Pickup Truck. While it definitely helped in replacing my old stock unit, as you can watch in my video. The road salt got to it very fast after having no issues for roughly 5 years of use.
Cost Comparison
Let me start off by saying this, high end radiators for vehicles like my Ford generally cost anywhere between $500-$900 USD depending on what all you want done to it. With my recent fix and replacement of my old eBay unit that cost was around $130 with tax. This means for the price of a high end unit you could purchase about 5 cheap Chinese units, yes 5 whole radiators for the price of a “High Quality” unit. Now this being said the likely hood of the really cheap units leaking I would hope would be a lot higher compared to the quality you would get with a USA made unit.
What Tools Might You Need For A 1970's Ford Truck Radiator Replacement?
- SAE Wrench Set From 7/16 – 5/8
- Socket Set Shallow Or Deep 7/16 – 9/16
- Ratcheting Wrench
- Flathead + Phillips Screwdrivers
- Drain Pan For Coolant
- Rags For ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid)
- ATF (Check Transmission Fluid Type)
- Coolant Mix (If Replacing)
- Distilled Water (If Not Mix)
- Cardboard Or Floor Creeper
Ensure Proper Disposal Of Glycol Antifreeze Engine Coolant
Engine Coolant Is Poisonous & Deadly To Animals
It’s Not That Hard To Get Rid Of The Right Way
In Partnership with the eBay Affiliate Program I earn a small commission when you purchase products through the links below no extra charge to you. It helps me out a TON!
(Always Double check your vehicle Parts/Part # Before Purchasing)
(eBay Affiliate Links)
- 1977 F250 Radiators: https://ebay.us/DxlTDd
- Coolant Drain Pans: https://ebay.us/RF36uF
- Radiator Cap Upgrade: https://ebay.us/UQtR4l
- 1977 Ford 351m Upper Rad Hose: https://ebay.us/rY1Xeq
- 1977 Ford 351m Lower Rad Hose 2 3/8″: https://ebay.us/E1pHeu
- 160F Thermostat Ford 351m: https://ebay.us/zs1Oq8
Radiator Quality
The quality of these unit can be very hit or miss in terms of weld quality and core quality. As an example, in my video I noticed while installing the new aluminum unit that the cores / fins has been soldered to the tank bladders with a slight curve while looking down them. This could affect structural integrity over time but is highly unlikely to fail because of that. When dealing with such items as radiators the main areas of concern are weld quality and solder quality. From what I can tell these cheap units look hand welded but probably with a fast machine. Usually with pure machine welding the welds are spaced evenly and have similar penetration into the metal. I assume these units are TIG but possibly not.
The polishing is to be expected to be mediocre at best. For $120 I am surprised they even attempt to polish them. On my new unit I did notice some uniform spots where a ground had been arced to the metal indicating a fast process of manufacturing. I would assume they have to pressure test all of their units otherwise the returns would be a massive headache. Other than some residual polishing compound left over the quality of welds is OK for around $120 for a bare unit.
Another thing that was a surprise was that the radiator transmission cooler line plugs were a different thread pitch and size all together. Come to find out the listing description online said this and I did not look. So before buying read the description and check or your current units line sizes. I had to go from 1/4 MIP to 1/8 FIP adapter and slightly bend my cooler lines to fit well on the flare fittings.
One thing I did not like was the inlet and outlet hole size for the transmission cooler lines. I will have to see if this affects shifting or heat buildup as I drive my rig.
An Upgrade?
I do have to say I am VERY surprised these units got an actual upgrade for the price, that never seems to happen with cheap import stuff. This would indicate to me a problem with sizing or structural integrity. Changes usually are not made unless there is a problem warranting a change. The main side supports for my radiator got a massive upgrade from almost stamped sheetmetal to actual thick bar stock aluminum. While this change was a great sight to see it changed the mounting of my fan shroud to have incorrect spacing to the radiator.
Why The Original Failed
A while back I made a move to another state that used road salt during winter. Since my truck has a very simple open front design it got coated all winter with road water. On the lower core of the radiator where the fins go into the lower bladder the solder must have been of cheap quality because that was the failure point. My buddy and I one day started to notice a very strong coolant smell when I drove the truck. Come to find out the lower bladder started to leak from the road salt corrosion. These radiators are 3 rows thick making the core sizes front to back a great place to water to sit and collect. Couple this with evaporation from hot coolant and all that is left is road grime and salt.
I did attempt to wash my truck as much as possible but without dedicated salt wash and physical scrubbing it really doesn’t do all that much. I also want to mention that I was lazy and used tap water in my cooling system. This made the inside of my trucks cooling system very rusty. Now needing a coolant flush and dramatically reducing cooling efficiency I would highly recommend using the correct 50/50 mix or distilled water that lacks all the bad minerals that rust Iron.
Conclusion
All In All like anything in life if you want worry free high quality materials go with a $700 radiator. But if your broke and are willing to keep up on maintenance, have a possible poor quality unit, and have to deal with possible issues early on. For under $200 you can have yourself a pretty well done full 3 row aluminum radiator with a transmission cooler. Would I recommend these units? Sure, just make sure you get a replacement plan if you have the extra cash.
Verify Your Email
We have sent a 6-digit verification code to your email. Please enter it below to continue.
Verify Your Email
We have sent a 6-digit verification code to your email. Please enter it below to continue.
My Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@TylerCreates
My Links / Social Media: https://linktr.ee/tylercreates_
Buy Me A Coffee (Donations / Memberships) https://buymeacoffee.com/forgivencr7
Warning & Disclaimer
I am not a certified mechanic and do not attempt to be one. My articles, videos, and any content I post online are my personal opinion and nothing more. Buy or attempt any repairs at your own risk and expense. I assume no responsibly for your life decisions, projects, or personal health. Take my opinions at your own risk.